The life and times of an American living in Cochabamba, Bolivia.

Saturday, January 13, 2007

Luckily, the black eye left by the protests and violence in Cochabamba has started to heal. Today, diplomatic negotiations have put an end to the public transportation stoppage, and hopefully any further violence. I was able to leave the Villa for the first time in five days today, and it is nice to see the city recovering from all the disruption. In the Villa, we are now planning to leave on our trip to Sucre and Potosí on Tuesday. The children are very excited and continue to remind me to back my bags. I will try to give another update when we return.

Friday, January 12, 2007

The political stability in Cochabamba has not been so fragile since the 2002 Water War. And after talking to numerous individuals who were involved in that conflict, I am told that the current situation is even worse. Three days ago, protestors from Evo Morales’ political party, MAS, began marching in the Plaza Principal, demanding the resignation of the Cochabamban prefect, Manfred Reyes Villa. Their demands stem from Reyes Villa’s initiation of a referendum in the department of Cochabamba to gain more economic and political autonomy. This proposal of a referendum, organized democratically, has been wholly rejected by the farmers and coca growers of the region. As a form of protest, they set fire to the entrance to the building of Manfred’s office, burned two Prefect cars, blockaded all road exits to and from the city of Cochabamba, and begun threatening violence against any who oppose them. For the last three days, the local police have tried to dissuade these protests by using tear gas, but yesterday the conflict reached its height. With protestors from MAS marching for the resignation of Manfred and a counter-march demanding that democracy be upheld, the police were unable to subdue the mobs. Two people were killed, a coca grower supporting MAS and the seventeen-year-old nephew of Reyes Villa´s secretary supporting a youth counter movement. In addition, there were more than seventy wounded, some very seriously, during yesterday’s events. An indefinite public transportation stoppage has been put in effect, and neither side seems willing to compromise its goals. Surprisingly, in the throes of this crisis, the president of the Republic is off in Venezuela celebrating the inauguration of his good friend, Hugo Chávez. The citizens of Cochabamba continue to cry for an end to the violence and for the direct involvement of Evo in the resolution of the conflict. But as of now, these pleas have fallen on deaf ears.
Luckily in the Villa, we are removed from this heated struggle. However, we have not been able to go to the center of town, even in the Villa’s private cars. No one from the administration came to work today, due to the increased presence of blockades and danger in the city. In addition, the five-day trip that we had planned for the children to visit Sucre and Potosí, the highest city in the world, has been postponed indefinitely. Nevertheless, the morale of the children seems to be unaffected by the conflicts that plague the city. At dinnertime, they are more interested in viewing their favorite soap opera than daily news reports. One of the advantages of being so far from the center of town and inside barbed-wire fences is that it is much easier to block out all that is negative in the world around us. But even so, we wait and hope that an end to this dispute will come soon.

Thursday, January 11, 2007

After nearly a two-month hiatus from my blog, I owe an apology to all of the readers interested in the continued growth of the mission here at Amistad. As we begin this new year, one of my resolutions is to give regular and focused attention to updating the blog. The challenge, of course, is to make a sustained effort for the duration of the year and not merely for several months, as is often the case with this type of resolution.
Anyway, in my absence from the blog, many exciting things have happened here in the Villa. Perhaps the greatest of all of these was the 16th Anniversary celebration of the Mission. On a beautiful Saturday in early December, many of the involved parties in the Mission came together for this unique commemoration. Apart from the children, mamás and tías, and workers and administrators of the Villa, we were blessed to have the company of the staff and beneficiaries of the Mission’s work in Aramasi, former Amistad workers, and most especially, several friends and board members of the Mission from the U.S.
We began the day by introducing our newly-formed Scouts program, which has been an operational project for about two months, with children from the Villa and also from a nearby community participating in group activities every Saturday morning. Children lined up according to their respective groups (Wolf, Pioneers, and Explorers) and saluted in the proper manner the raising of the Scout flag.
Once this introductory activity was completed, we, as leaders of the Scout groups, enlisted the help of the children to seat all of the invited guests outside of Casa San Martín. After several years of disuse, this house was reopened under the direction of a new mamá, Marisa. In order to properly honor this special occasion, Reverend Ken Swanson (a celebrity for these children) introduced the visitors to those who would live in the house. Following this introduction, Reverend Swanson gave a blessing for the prosperity and growth of all who entered into the house, that God protect and keep them in his graces. The mamá and oldest girl of the house then cut the ceremonial red ribbon and entered with the rest of the family, while we all joined in songs of praise led by our choral director, Douglas.Following the blessing of Casa San Martín, we went to the gymnasium to honor and give plaques to the mamás who work tirelessly to give the children of Amistad a better life. As I have said in previous posts, their dedication should be praised and recognized continuously. They truly are the heart of this institution. The presentation of plaques to the mamás was followed by a moving moment for us all. Vladimir, one of the youths living in the Boys Transition House, approached the microphone and timidly expressed his gratitude for the work and kindness of the members of the Amistad board who had taken the time to visit. As a symbol of this gratitude, he presented each member with a hand-woven pouch that he had personally made over the course of the year. What continues to touch me most about Vladimir’s gifts, however, is the fact that this selfless youth is blind. He, of all the children in the Mission, wanted the supporters of Amistad to understand how much he appreciates them. His efforts and perseverance are an example of one of the many success stories that have and continue to come from children in the Mission.Once each of the board members had been individually acknowledged and thanked by Vladimir, we settled in to view a theatrical performance by the children of the Villa. The short play, developed over the span of nearly two months, dealt with a dream world inhabited by fantasies and nightmares. Carla, a very intelligent young girl from Casa Esperanza, played the role of the Queen of Dreamland who helped all who entered to realize their goals. After being captured by the cruel inhabitants from the Land of Nightmares, Carla was rescued by two young dreamers (Bárbara from Casa San Francisco and Jhenny from Casa Copacabana) who used laughter to conquer their fears of the nightmares. The play ended with the message that all dreams can come true through hardwork and perseverance and that no impediment, such as a nightmare, is too great to overcome.
The play concluded the morning’s activities, and we all retired to the basketball court outside (luckily shaded on this sunny day) to enjoy a typical Bolivian lunch. Each visitor was treated to one of two plates, picante de pollo (spicy chicken, plantain, potato, corn, and salad) or charque (beef, potato, corn, egg, a grain called mote, and salad). As is often the case in Bolivia, the quantity of food was more than enough to satisfy one’s hunger. After finishing my plate, I excused myself to change from my Scout uniform into more formal attire for my afternoon MC duties.
The afternoon program kicked off with a cultural presentation and exposition of the works developed by the children of the Villa during the year in their classes of arts and crafts. Nine groups, representing each of the departments of Bolivia, of three to four children showed off the fruits of their labor while dancing around the gymnasium in attire typical of their represented department. The occasion served as an opportunity to orient the North American visitors to another aspect of Bolivian culture, as well as the impressive art of the Villa children. In addition, this cultural exposition proved to be an appropriate transition to the next activity of the day: Bolivian dances. Once again, each of the nine departments were represented in a series of dances performed by children of the Villa and the boys’ and girls’ transition houses, women and their babies from Aramasi, workers and administrators of the Villa, and yes quite comically, yours truly. After the third dance, I had to relinquish the microphone to change into my indigenous garb. The dance I performed with administrators, workers, mamás and tías of the Villa is called Tinkus, which means “encounter.” It has its origins in Potosí, a mining region in southern Bolivia, and involves rival tribes who meet up several times per year to combat one another for land and women, among other things. After a month of practice once or twice per week, I felt pretty comfortable with the steps. Luckily during the performance, I did not embarrass myself additionally apart from being a clumsy gringo. In the dance, I had the dubious honor of being the winner. I say dubious, because the winner obviously receives the accolades of a champion, but it also means that you have to dance around longer than anyone else. We had never practiced in the full Tinkus attire, and by the end of the dance, I felt its weight. I was no happier than when we began to parade off stage and return to the dressing room (a.k.a. the bakery). I now have a profound respect for the traditional dancers who perform not one, but close to a dozen different dances in their shows.Several additional dance performances followed, and then we set up the gymnasium for the final activity of the day: the mass. The presence of three religious figures made the celebration of the mass particularly special. Reverend Ken Swanson from Christ Church Cathedral in Nashville, Father Steve Judd from the Maryknoll Language Institute in Cochabamba, and Bishop Tito Solari of Cochabamba. Together, they provided a service in Spanish and English that emphasized the ecumenical goals of the Mission and the continued cross-cultural support that helps to achieve these goals. With the participation of children, mamás and tías, administrators, and friends of the Mission, this mass was a fitting conclusion to the day’s events, as it reminded us of our spirituality, unity, and purpose in our work within Amistad.
Unfortunately, this momentous celebration could not last. With the conclusion of the mass, we had to say our goodbyes to the people of Aramasi, former workers of Amistad, and most sadly, our friends from the States. During the three days that they had been in Cochabamba, these visitors had the opportunity to see the achievements of the Mission, both in the Villa and in Aramasi. They were able to admire the continued construction of the lined, cobblestone road running through the Villa, the lovely mural of the Virgin Mary and Jesus painted on the door of the gymnasium, and the beautiful grotto and fountain that honors the Virgin of Rosario (the Virgin was removed for cleaning). But most importantly, these visitors saw the healthy, smiling faces of the children of the Villa, who continue to grow in an environment of love and spirituality. And for me, the celebration in the Villa demonstrated that after sixteen years of service to the children of Bolivia, the Amistad Mission clearly stands as a beacon of hope for all who enter through its gates.